There are marked differences of quality in most wine regions between run of mill producers and the best, but the differences can be stark in Burgundy. I was stuck by this at the annual Terroirs et Signatures tasting at Lord’s today, although I readily admit that it can be unwise to generalise to far on the basis of just three hours’ tasting – of around sixty or seventy wines. To be more accurate, although I found few wines that I didn’t enjoy, the really fine wines stood out a mile. I love, for example, La Chablisienne’s superb Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2007, now re-named ‘Les Vénérables’. It knocks spots off many a Premier Cru, with its winning combination of richness, deliciously crisp fruit and clean minerality. The oldest co-op in Burgundy is still ahead of the game.
But the real shock came with my first ever tasting of the brilliant wines of the Domaine Taupenot Merme. There was a quality and depth of fruit here that had me grinning inanely from ear to ear – fabulous, complex and fascinating, but all utterly true to their terroir. I shall find an excuse soon to write more about Romain Taupenot, and his clear-headed ideas about viticulture and winemaking – and his thoughts about when wine tastes best.
It was, of course, a propitious day for wine tasting according to the biodynamic calendar. If had only tasted Romain’s wines I might have given agreed that the calendar was spot on. But I tasted other wines that will surely taste better on other days and in other circumstances.
